4 Cs

A universal grading system developed by GIA (Gemological Institute of America) to evaluate the quality of a diamond. The 4 Cs are Carat, Color, Clarity, and Cut. See 4 Cs.

Accent Gemstones

Gemstones within a jewelry design that are not the main focus, but instead accent or complement the center gemstone and side gemstones. Accent gemstones are typically comprised of melee gemstones.

Alloy

A mixture of two or more metals to create more desirable characteristics and/or added strength.

Anniversary Band

A ring of three or more diamonds or gemstones, typically set in a channel or prong setting. The stones partially encircle the ring.

Antique Jewelry

Jewelry that is 100 years old or more.

Art Deco

A decorative style of the 1920s and 1930s that features bold geometric shapes, linear patterns, and diverse colors.

Art Nouveau

A decorative style from the late 1800s to early 1900s characterized by free-flowing lines and stylized natural forms such as flowers, leaves, and feminine form.

Attribute

A characteristic of a product that can include a color, design, style, form, shape, or feature.

Azured

A mounting that leaves a gemstone’s pavilion facets uncovered so that light can enter.

Band

A ring, usually uniform in width, with no distinguishable “top”; may be set with gemstones.

Bar Set

A setting technique where the gemstone is secured between two parallel bars, while the sides of the gem remain open.

Basket Setting

A type of prong setting with open sides similar to a basket weave, that allows the lower portion of the gemstone to be visible.

Bead Set

A method for securing a gemstone where a small bur of metal is raised with a graver and pushed over the edge of the gemstone.

Belcher

A ring mounting in which the prongs for the setting are formed from the shank of the ring so that the gemstone does not extend above the circumference of the shank.

Bezel-Set

A method for securing a gemstone in which a band of metal encircles the girdle of the gemstone and is folded over the gem to hold it in place.

Birthstone

A precious or semi-precious gemstone popularly associated with the month of birth.

  • January- Garnet
  • February- Amethyst
  • March- Aquamarine
  • April- Diamond
  • May- Emerald
  • June- Pearl
  • July- Ruby
  • August- Peridot
  • September- Sapphire
  • October- Opal
  • November- Citrine
  • December- Topaz

Bridal Set

A matching set of rings that includes an engagement ring and a wedding band, which are worn stacked together.

Bridge

The structural portion of a mounting that connects one side of the shank to the other.

Bridge Accent

A design element located beneath the center stone that can be seen when looking at the ring in the through finger view.

Bright-Cut

A metal engraving technique created by chiseling the metal with a polished tool creating a highly reflective surface.

Brilliance

Pertaining to diamonds, this term has two components: brightness and contrast. Brightness refers to the amount of light returned from the diamond’s surroundings and back to the observer. To be brilliant, a diamond also needs contrast, intensity of the white light from the crown of a polished diamond or other gemstone. Brilliance is affected by: hardness, refractive index, reflectivity, polish, luster, and proportions.

Buttercup Setting

A setting usually consisting of six prongs connected to a scalloped-shaped base that resembles a buttercup flower.

Bypass

A ring mounting design in which the two sides of the band do not meet in a straight line, but overlap or crisscross each other as seen in the top/looking down view.

Cabochon

A polished, convex-cut, unfaceted gemstone.

CAD/CAM

Computer-Aided Design/Computer Aided Manufacturing.

Carat

A unit of weight for precious and semi-precious gemstones, equal to 200 milligrams. See 4 Cs.

Cathedral Setting

A style of mounting in which the sides of the ring arch above the band on either side of the stone as seen in the through finger view.

Center Gemstone

The main gemstone in the design which is usually the focal point of the jewelry.

Channel-Set

A setting style in which a series of gemstones are set close together into grooves in two parallel walls.

Chevron or V-Prong

A prong in the shape of a V usually found on gemstone shapes with sharp corners.

Clarity

A term used to describe the absence or presence of internal or external flaws in a gemstone. See 4 Cs.

Claw (Prong)

A wire used to fasten and hold a gemstone in a setting.

Cluster

Multiple gemstones grouped together in a setting, which may or may not overlap each other.

Color Grade

As it pertains to diamonds, color is one of the characteristics used to define the quality of a diamond. The GIA color scale ranges from D to Z, D being considered colorless and higher in value. See 4 Cs.

Comfort-Fit

Describes the convex interior of a ring or band.

Contemporary

Designs that are up-to-date with current trends in the industry with a modern flair.

Contemporary Metal

Metal alloys and industrial metals that are not part of the traditional “precious metal” group. These low-cost alternatives include, but are not limited to, titanium, tungsten carbide, stainless steel, and cobalt chrome.

Contour Band

A wedding band designed and contoured to be worn with a specific engagement ring. The design is such that it would not usually be worn on its own.

Crown

As it refers to a cut gemstone, the faceted area of a gemstone located above the girdle, but below the table.

Culet

Refers to the base point of a diamond.

Cut

As it refers to a round diamond, cut is the factor that determines the diamond‘s brilliance. Cut qualifies the brilliance, fire, and scintillation of a round, brilliant cut diamond by analyzing the diamond‘s symmetry, proportions, and polish. See 4 Cs.

CZ

Short for Cubic Zirconia, a man-made gemstone created to simulate a diamond. Approximately 64% heavier than diamond.

Danish Modern

A design style using elements from the period of the 1960s. The designs are of the form follows function” genre and are minimalist in presentation. See Minimalist.

Depth

In reference to a gemstone, it is the length from table to culet.

Design Element

An attribute type used to describe features of a jewelry item.

Diameter

In reference to a gemstone, it is the overall width.

Die Struck

A process for manufacturing heads in which the item is stamped under extreme pressure, resulting in a work-hardened rigid part. See Anneal.

Dispersion

The power of a diamond when breaking up its light into its constituent colors. See Fire.

DWT

Abbreviation for pennyweight. There are 20 pennyweights in an ounce (troy). See Pennyweight.

Edwardian

Characteristically containing lace-like, fine filigree work with milgrain settings. Popular from 1900-1914, it was usually produced in platinum for strength. Intricate, airy, and feminine. See Filigree and Milgrain.

Engagement Ring

Traditionally worn only by women (especially in Western cultures), an engagement ring is a ring indicating that the person wearing it is engaged to be married.

Engraving

The process or art of cutting or carving a design into a hard surface.

Eternity Band

A band set with one or more continuous rows of gemstones that completely encircle the band.

Facet

The flat, polished surface of a gemstone that affects a gemstone’s brilliance and sparkle.

Fancy

Describes any jewelry that incorporates whimsy, fun, and innovation in its design. It is trendy and stylish and may not become a classic or be considered a basic item. It makes a great fashion statement or conversation starter.

Fancy Wedding Band

A wedding band with more decorative styling than a simple, traditional band.

Fashion Ring

A type of ring worn to express style or a current trend. Filigree Lace-like ornamental work formed from thin wires of intricately-arranged intertwined precious metal. May be plain, twisted, or plaited.

Finish

A decorative texture applied to the surface to enhance its appearance.

Fire

Dispersed light that appears as flashes of spectral colors (rainbow) on a diamond. See Dispersion.

Fishtail Setting

A setting technique consisting of four prominent triangular corners cut from the existing shank that hold the gemstone in place. When viewed from the through finger view it looks like the tail of a fish.

Fitted Band

See Shadow Band.

Flush-Set

A setting technique in which the gemstone is embedded within the band and the metal from the band is used to secure the gemstone, leaving only the top of the gem visible.

Fluted

An ornamental groove in a surface which creates visual interest.

Freeform

An asymmetrical, flowing shape or design.

The negative space located on a head/setting.

Gemstone

A mineral or organic material with sufficient beauty, rarity, and durability to be set into jewelry.

The metal rim located on a head/setting, below the girdle of a gemstone.

Gemstone Shape

Referring to the potential options of shape and size that a gemstone can be cut. The outline form of a gemstone, not to be confused with the faceting pattern.

Genuine Stone

A gemstone that is produced by nature without interference from man, other than cutting or fashioning. Do not confuse “natural” with untreated gemstones.

Girdle

The narrow band or edge separating the upper and lower faceted portions of a gem.

Gold

A precious, yellow, metallic element, highly malleable and ductile and not subject to oxidation or corrosion.

Gram

A gram is a metric system unit of mass/weight. One ounce (troy) is equivalent to 31.10 grams.

Gypsy-Set

A setting technique in which the gemstone is embedded within the band and the metal from the band is used to secure the gemstone, leaving only the top of the gem visible.

Half Bezel-Set

A method for securing a gemstone in which a band of metal partially encircles the girdle of the gemstone and is folded over the gem to hold it in place.

Hallmark

A quality mark indicating precious metal content (10kt, 14kt, 18kt, platinum, etc.). Typically stamped on a jewelry item in an inconspicuous location (back, inside ring shank, etc.). FTC requires the manufacturer or distributor of said product to disclose their identity by accompanying the quality mark with a trademark or company name.

Hammer-Set

A setting technique in which the gemstone is embedded within the band and the metal from the band is used to secure the gemstone, leaving only the top of the gem visible.

Halo

A jewelry style featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a border of smaller gemstones.

The part of a jewelry item that secures the gemstone. This is sometimes referred to as the setting.

Hypo-Allergenic

A term used to describe items (in this case jewelry) that cause or are claimed to cause fewer allergic reactions. Depending on the allergen of the subject, these may include metals such as stainless steel, titanium, gold, etc.

Illusion-Set

A setting technique patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933 (Mystery Setting) in which a diamond is placed in a col¬let of reflective, highly-polished metal so that it appears to be part of the gemstone to enhance the perceived size of the diamond.

Inlay

The insertion of pieces of gem¬stones, wood, ivory, etc. into slots created on a surface for embellishment.

Invisible-Set

A setting technique with no visible prongs or supports. The gemstones are grooved so that a thin wire framework holds the gemstones in place.

Karat

A unit of measure of the purity of gold. Pure gold equals 24 karats.

Looking Down/Top View A way to describe looking at a ring from the top down or bird’s eye view.

Melee

Classification used in the sorting of diamonds weighing less than .17 carats or 17 points each.

Micro Pavé

A highly precise setting technique similar to pavé but using extremely small gemstones.

Milgrain

Having the edge shaped into fine beading.

Minimalist

A term used to describe a movement in design and architecture around the 1960s and 1970s, where the subject is reduced as much as possible to only its necessary elements.

Moissanite

A rare mineral discovered by Henri Moissan, later synthesized in the laboratory and used as a high-quality diamond substitute.

Mounting

A jewelry item that has stone settings, but in which no stones have been set. It requires no further assembly work; the exception being an unset semi-mount mounting which requires a head to be attached.

Notched Band

A wedding band designed and contoured to be worn with a specific engagement ring. The design is such that it would not usually be worn on its own.

Organic

A design style using free-flowing curves and surfaces similar to those from nature such as in leaves, vines, etc.

Pavé

A field of bead-set gemstones closely set, usually in rows, whereby the entire surface of the jewelry is covered or pavéd.

Pavilion

The lower part of a cut gemstone below the girdle.

Peg Head

A setting with a peg attached to it that can be easily attached to a jewelry item by inserting the peg into a drilled hole. Peg heads are commonly used in semi-mount engagement rings.

Pennyweight

Pennyweight is a common weight unit of measure used in the valuation and measurement of precious metals. One pennyweight equals 1⁄20 of a ounce (troy). See DWT.

Platinum

A heavy, non-corrosive white metal with high tensile strength which dulls as it is worn but holds its detail for many years, giving it heirloom characteristics.

Precious Metals

Metals that are rare and have high economic value. Gold, silver, platinum, and palladium.

Precious Gemstone

The group of gemstones consisting of diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds.

Primary Metal

The metal alloy that, when describing a two-tone item, makes up the majority of the weight of the jewelry item. See Secondary Metal.

Profile

A profile is a cross sectional view. Flat inside round, comfort-fit, inside round, flat, knife-edge, etc., are examples of band profiles.

Promise Ring

A ring worn to show commitment to a monogamous relationship, usually set with one or more diamond melee.

Prong-Set

A setting technique in which a gemstone is held in place by metal projections or tines, called prongs.

Prototype

An example of a piece of jewelry created from inexpensive, non-precious materials.

Remount

The act of removing gems from one jewelry item and setting them into a new jewelry item. The term remount is sometimes used interchangeably with ”semi-mount,“ when referring to jewelry designed for this purpose.

Ring

A piece of jewelry worn on the finger. Very small rings may be worn on the toes.

Ring Guard

A ring designed with two shanks assembled so that a solitaire ring may be inserted into it.

Scalloped-Set

A technique for setting gemstones in which the prongs are created from the shank. Fishtail is one example of a scalloped setting.

Scintillation

The intense sparkles and flashes of light visible when either the person viewing the diamond or the lighting moves.

Scooped Band

A band with a concave groove on the inside of the band, designed to lessen the weight of the piece, therefore lowering the price.

Secondary Metal

When describing a two-tone item, the metal alloy that makes up the minority of the weight of the jewelry item. See Primary Metal.

Semi-Precious Gemstone

A gemstone that is not a diamond, emerald, sapphire, or ruby – historically thought to be less valuable than a precious gemstone, i.e., amethyst, peridot, aquamarine, etc.

Semi-Mount Ring with Head

Any engagement ring set and sold to the jeweler with side s0\tones or melee, but without the center stone. The fixed head for the center stone is in place.

Semi-Mount Ring without Head

Any engagement ring set and sold to the jeweler with side stones or melee but without the center stone. The head for the center stone is NOT in place. May also be referred to as a set shank since it is not a completely assembled ring.

Setting

The act of securing a gemstone. The term setting is sometimes used interchangeably with head and/or mounting.

Shadow Band

A wedding band designed and contoured to be worn with a specific engagement ring. The design is such that it would not usually be worn on its own.

Shank

A ring designed for, but stocked without a center head and that is not complete without such head. The part of a ring that encircles the finger.

Shoulders

The upper part of a ring shank.

Side Stones

Gemstones that complement and place emphasis on the center gemstone. Side gemstones are typically larger than accent gemstones.

Side View

A way to describe looking at a ring from the side.

Silver

A precious metal that is commonly alloyed to create the more durable alloy known as sterling silver.

Signet Ring

A ring with letters (usually one’s initials), or a design carved into it. A college ring is an example of a signet ring.

Sizing Area

The area at the bottom of a ring shank where metal can be inserted or removed to reduce or increase the finger size of the ring.

Solitaire

A piece of jewelry containing or designed to hold a single diamond.

Sterling Silver

A precious metal alloy of 92.5% silver and copper, or another material.

Table

Referring to the top, flat part of the cut of a gemstone.

Tension-Set

A setting that holds the gemstone in place entirely with compression/tension and not prongs.

Three-Stone Ring

A ring consisting mainly of three larger stones.

Through Finger View

A way to describe looking at a ring through the finger hole.

Titanium

A strong, low-density, highly corrosion-resistant and lustrous white element that occurs widely in igneous rocks and is mainly used to alloy aircraft metals. It is also a popular choice for piercing jewelry.

Trellis Setting

A structure of open latticework especially used as a gallery support for gemstones.

Troy Ounce

A unit of troy weight, used for weighing precious metals. The ounce contains 20 pennyweights (dwt) each of 24 grains. One troy ounce is equivalent to 31.10 grams.

Tungsten

A contemporary metal containing equal parts of tungsten and carbon atoms.

Two-Tone

A jewelry item comprised of two different metals or alloys of different color.

Unset Semi-Mount

A ring mounting designed to hold side stones or melee, but in which no stones have been set and the head for the center stone is NOT in place. May also be referred to as a shank.

Wedding Band

A ring, usually uniform in width, with no distinguishable “top”; may be set with gemstones, or a wedding band designed and contoured to be worn with a specific engagement ring. The design is such that it would not usually be worn on its own.

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White Gold

A white-colored alloy of gold with nickel, platinum, or another metal.

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